My Methods for Cleaning and Storing Morels

My Methods for Cleaning and Storing Morels:

Breaking Morel

Breaking a bad part off of a morel

The first thing I do when I get home with my mushrooms is remove the bad parts from the morels; I just break those parts off with my fingers.  I sort out the ones that are very ripe and should be eaten right away.

Blowing Morel

Blowing some dirt off of a morel with my air compressor

Then I carefully blow each morel off with my air compressor set at 40 psi; I hold my blow gun about four or five inches away from the morel and use a sweeping motion.  I am using an oil-free air compressor with a moisture separator so I don’t get anything on them.  At 40 psi, when I hold my blow gun really close to the morel I can usually blow off bad parts of the mushroom without doing too much damage.  After this my morels are pretty clean and I place them into paper bags (never plastic or any closed container) at the lowest parts of my refrigerator.  If I were to place them on the top shelf in my old fridge they could get frosted and destroyed.  The morels need to breathe, if you put them in a sealed container, or even on plastic, they will go bad. They can store this way for a week or more, but they will slowly dry out.  I don’t wash them until just before cooking, freezing, or drying.  Once they are soaked they can go bad more quickly.

To wash the morels, some people will place them in a salt bath.  This salt bath will bring the creepy crawlers out of the morels, but some say that this will adversely affect the flavor, so I use just water (I can’t see how the salt bath would get the little bits of sand and dirt out of the morels anyway).  I found that my kitchen faucet didn’t have enough pressure to clean them effectively; I would notice a little bit of grit when eating my morels.  People tell me that this is just how they are, and that you can’t get all of that out of there, but I like to try.  I use an adjustable spray nozzle on my garden hose and try to get a spray that will clean them well but not blow them apart.  I cup the morels in my hand while I spray, so if it breaks apart it won’t go flying.  After cleaning the outside of the morel this way, I cut them in half lengthwise and the insides clean easily.

Once you have washed your morels, you can cook them up or preserve them.  Two methods of preservation are freezing and drying.  I prefer drying, since this preserves them longer.

Freezing Morels:

Frozen Morels

Partially cooked morels frozen in butter

Some people freeze morels after washing them, getting as much air out of freezer bags or other containers as possible.  I try to use morels frozen this way within a few months; for me it doesn’t take long before there is some freezer burn.  There is another method that I prefer; I cook them lightly in butter first, leaving much butter with the morels when I bag them.  This makes it easy to get any air out and preserves them in the freezer for a long time.  When you are ready to use them, just put them back in a skillet and finish cooking them.  In the bag pictured are morels from last year.  I had this bag inside of another freezer bag and I am confident that these morels would be as good as they were the day I made them, one year ago.

Drying Morels:

Bead on a string

Thread a needle, make the string a foot or two longer than the width of your window, and tie a pony bead to the end.

To dry morels, do not use a dehydrator unless you have one that has adjustable temperature and can operate at 110 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Most inexpensive dehydrators operate between 140 and 150 degrees.  This higher temperature will actually cook the morels, and when rehydrated, they will not be as good.

Hang Morel

Run the needle through the stem of the morel

The best way to dry morels is to first cut them in half (I do this when I clean them), then run a needle and thread through the half stem, stringing many of them together on the string.  I tie a pony bead to the end of the thread; this keeps the morels from sliding off while I am stringing.

Hanging Morels

Hang the morels in a sunny window. Be sure that the morels are not touching; wherever they touch they will mold.

Hang this string in a sunny window. I like to use the mounts for my curtain rods, tying the ends of the string to these.  Make sure that no morels are touching each other; wherever they are touching they will mold.

After two or three days your morels will have shrunk down considerably and will feel dry to the touch.  If some feel a little squishy, they are not quite dry.  Once completely dry, I place mine into paper bags again for a week or so. Then I put them into an air-tight container in my cupboard.  If you go straight to an air-tight container after air-drying, be sure to open that container a couple of times a day and air them out.  This will make sure there is no remaining moisture to cause mold.

Months down the road, when you get the craving for morels, simply soak the mushrooms in a milk bath for about two hours.  I just leave the milk and morels in the refrigerator as they re-hydrate.  Two cups of milk is adequate for an ounce of dried morels (an ounce dry is equivalent to a pound of fresh morels).  If you search online about re-hydrating morels, you will see instructions to soak them in water.  These people don’t know what they are talking about.  Soaking them in water will leave them soggy and mushy.  If you soak them in milk they will return closer to their original texture, it has something to do with the calcium in milk.


Morel Hunting Tips

I am getting ready to head out again this morning but thought I would add a few tips for finding morels this early in the season.

Four Morels

First, I am finding them on south-facing wooded slopes that have been getting some sunshine (not hidden from the sun behind other hills or dense woods.)  This can be a very slight slope, or steep.  Even a ditch or small valley that runs east to west will do.  Look for dead or dying elm trees (the wood beneath the thin gray bark is almost white), and some ground cover of leaves, brush, and dead wood.  Apple trees can also be good hosts to morels, as well as some poplar and pines.

Dead Elm Tree

Dead Elm Tree

Pay close attention to the bases of trees and around bushes, dead leaves, brush, and decomposing wood.  If you find a morel, keep searching the area, being careful not to step on any others.  Where there is one there is usually more.  Sometimes I find a morel, then search where I had just been and find more.  Looking from different angles can help to find them; they are often peeking from beneath leaves and fallen bark.

Dead Elm Tree

Dead Elm Tree

Sometimes getting low to the ground helps and other times you can get another perspective by standing on a fallen tree.

When I find a dead or dying tree, I search to a radius of 15 to 20 feet around the tree very slowly.  The colony of mycelium is growing from the decaying roots of the tree which will extend farther out than the trees branches did.  You will often be surprised where you find morels.  If there are many elm trees present, they could be anywhere.

Dead Elm Tree before losing bark

Dead Elm tree before losing its bark

If you happen upon a tree that looks like this, slow down and step very carefully.  This dead Elm still has most of its bark, so it hasn’t been dead long; around trees such as these are some of the best places to find morels.  Sometimes I just stand in one spot for minutes, looking all around me.  I lean to see around obstructions and carefully lift branches and leaves with my stick.  I’ll look from up high and from down low, then take a couple of steps and repeat the process.

Sometimes you can see white branches sticking through the canopy of the woods.  These are often elm trees that haven’t been dead for real long, and provide a good chance for finding morels.

Branches of a dead Elm tree

Top branches of a dead Elm tree


Morel Season Begins in Southern Minnesota

There may be a slow-down in the frequency of my posts for the next few weeks; it appears that morel season has begun, and I cannot resist the call to trek the hills.  I checked one of my early spots yesterday on my way to pick the kiddos up from school, and was delighted to find one.  The kids and I stopped back at the spot and rustled up nearly a pound of nice little grays, my favorites.  These little guys can be hard to see peeking through the dried leaves, and I was glad to have the young eyes along.  It was so much fun!

I have been taking pictures of some of the other early spring foragables in our area, the fiddleheads and stinging nettles, and gathering some too.  It was cloudy and dark the day that I photographed fiddleheads, and the pictures didn’t turn out too well.  I am hoping to see a few more at picking stage, and will get more photos when I do.  Even though morel season has begun, I still intend to write about fiddleheads and nettles, but it is hard to resist the call of the morels.

Ramps and Morels are plentiful in our area, and easy to identify, but always be careful that you know what you are collecting before consuming anything.  I strongly recommend getting a quality field guide to assist you in identification and to show plants and fungi that can be confused with the edible you are out to collect.  As far as ramps go, if they look like the photos I have posted, break one, and if it smells like onion, it is a ramp.

There are many ramps in the area in which I live, and maybe you have quite a few in your area too.  It is important to harvest responsibly to maintain a good supply of these wild onions for us and for the wildlife into the future.  I am taking only part of a patch that I find, and I will be collecting seeds to spread around.

Daybreak is here now and the hills are calling.